window stool overhang

The rest of the window casing originates at the stool, so the stool needs to be installed first. Sand for clearance. past each side of the window opening. If you decide not to use adhesive, you can fasten the stool right away by driving finish nails through the stool and into the sill jamb or framing below. At any rate if you go with this option I'd use a biscuit joiner to positively key the two pieces together to make sure they stay flush. The wood left after the cutting is the horn of the stool. Clamping a straight guide piece to the sill before sanding will help assure a straight finish. Tradition window and door trim looks more complicated than picture-framed trim, but it's actually simpler and more forgiving. A vibrating sander smooths the round-over cut on the ends of the stool. A good carpenter will be able to make a good cut with a sonic saw. Sealing it up would be easy with some spray foam or caulking. Scribe the face cut. Measuring from the drywall next to the jamb, mark the distance recorded earlier between the stock and the window. Whether restoring old houses or building new ones that look old, Tom Silva finds finish carpentry the most satisfying part of the job. How do I remove window sill / apron overhang? longer than the opening to allow for the stool extensions, or “horns”. I'm planning on building a built-in window seat against a wall that has two windows with sills and an apron that extends from the wall about 3/4" to 1": What's the best strategy for removing this extended part of the sill so that we can build flush against the wall? Nail in two 2-in. Thanks for the advice. The carpenter uses a round-over bit in a router to complete the profile on the return ends of the stool. Here, I’m using painted MDF that overhangs the drywall by only about 1⁄2 in., and extends about 1 in. So the fixed rear piece is mostly going to be open for the vent. 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To lay out the end of the stool where it wraps onto the wall, first add the reveal, casing width, and overhang, and mark the end of the horn on the wall. A bead of painter’s caulk takes care of any small gaps below the stool. It’s helpful to work on a sawhorse or bench near the window, with the stool oriented as it will be set into the opening. This is a style decision — you could easily overhang the stool farther for more of a nod to traditional design. Use a Japanese pull saw to finish the miter-saw cut and to make the rip cuts for the horns. Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange! Could keeping score help in conflict resolution? Why didn't the Imperial fleet detect the Millennium Falcon on the back of the star destroyer? If you opt to use adhesive, apply just a thin bead to the back edge of the stool and horns. The gray part is a vent for the radiator behind: I would agree with #2. I measured the new stool so it’d have a 1-inch overhang on each side of the installed 1x4s, which includes the 1/8-inch reveal on each side I mentioned earlier and I’ll show later. To avoid gouging the drywall, ease one bottom corner with sandpaper. So after the straight cuts to make my 2 stools, I flipped them over and laid the old stool on top to mark my recess that actually sits on the frame of the window. Mark the depths taken from the window on the T-bevel lines, then use a square to mark where the horns will meet the wall. The stool is the part of the window trim that wraps from the inside of the window around and onto the wall. Many carpenters skip this step to make the stool easy to remove in the future. When you have finished cutting and sanding the stool, bring it to the window and dry fit it in place to check the fit. The first step in the stool layout is determining the stool's overall length. When it is in place, drive nails through the flat section into the sill or framing below. You could possibly simulate that single piece look by cutting the existing stools flush to the wall as you suggest in option #2. What happens to the Stone-Cech compactification if you change "compact Hausdorff" to "compact"? past each side of the window opening. I'm planning on building a built-in window seat against a wall that has two windows with sills and an apron that extends from …

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