tenaya iati vs solution

We put together our 'shoeculator' to help you They are downturned enough to work well on overhangs, and yet not so overturned that they are useless when smearing (in fact that smear damn well) The velcro strap system is also incredibly clever, you get the ease of use of the velcro but the adjustability of a lace. I had to tighten the straps to the point where I can barely squeeze my foot in through them, before I even close the straps with the velcro flap, 2020-2021 Blister Winter Buyer's Guide — Print Edition. *Your purchase helps to support the work of Gear Institute. RUBBERThe IATI’s Vibram XS Grip rubber is soft and confident. Comfy upper. They haven’t been available for very long but they are clearly steep sport climbing machines, just like Megos. COMFORT/FITThe IATI has an amazing level of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack climbs. It out-performed other shoes in the test group without causing the common pains associated with most climbing shoes. Tenaya have taken this to the next level in the Oasi with what they call the 'Draxtor' system which is a very precise lacing system. But the narrow width is what makes the Iati such an exceptional face climber. We will therefore be able to dispatch your order within around 1 week. Brilliant for indoor use with the thin sole, giving you great feel underfoot. Grab the toe in one hand and the heel in the other and twist the shoe back and forth like you’re screwing the lid on and off a jar to get a feel for the shoe’s flexibility. Both straps are still independently adjustable. When switching from synthetic to leather you may want to select a smaller size. By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. With a two part sole, the rubber is split and beneath the arch of the foot you’ll just see rand rubber. It hit the shelves in the fall of 2015 which gave us just enough time to get them out on the rock and see how they stack up against Tenaya’s other high-performance models: the Oasi and the Tarifa. It fits great right out of the box, but make sure to order a half to a full size down from your normal climbing shoe size. Perfect allrounder who does it all with feel & sensitivity + tons of comfort. Some climbers use more strength than footwork, but not Megos — he uses both, so it would only make sense that the shoe he wears into his toughest battles is well-proven in the field. I also found myself a little less than satisfied with the heel and toe hooking ability of the shoe. I'm a bit wider feet in the top region. Entry is VERY tight at first, I had real difficulty getting them on, but once broken in they are snug enough to not come off by accident but still be usable from cold without plastic bagging them. The Oasi is an exercise in design to prove that performance doesnt necessarily mean a shoe is uncomfortable. The Iati is slightly more downturned in the toe box than its counterparts. There both extremely knowledgeable with climbing gear, very friendly and extremely family oriented. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Tenaya have taken this to the next level in the Oasi with what they call the 'Draxtor' system which is a very precise lacing system. Home » Gear Reviews » Climbing » Climbing Shoes » Tenaya IATI. This shoe feels at home on any terrain. While it still has a bit of a downturn, it isn’t nearly as dramatic as some of the P3-equipped La Sportiva shoes. The Solution also has … I emailed them and there was no question in there mind about helping me out with my mess up on the wrong size. At Tenaya's .net webpage, the rigidity ratings are 3 for the Oasi and 3.5 for the Tarifa. For steep bouldering, I found the Iati to be just a hair on the too stiff side, but that’s only comparing it to specialized modern “rubber sock” models that let your foot bend backwards like an elf shoe and smear on overhangs. The forefoot is MUCH narrower than the Instincts, and sizing is smaller. I found that I usually have to get my foot partway in, then pull the liner up like a sock, since it gets bunched up as your foot goes in. The shape of the heel cup on the Iati seems to be borrowed from the Tarifa. But the straps are adjustable via small “buckles,” so the closure can be changed for feet of slightly different sizes, or for different tightness preferences. As usual there are various acronyms for the technologies in the shoe. The tongue and inner liner are relatively loose inside the shoe. How can we improve GearLab? It’s still what I consider “moderately downturned” by today’s standards but you can really feel the Iati suck up underneath the bend in your toes and snug into the arch of your foot. SMEARINGThe IATI’s comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant. Shoes like the Solution are specialists, in that where they excel is on the steepest of the steep, the most aggressive and technical terrain. Both shoes have a highly aggressive downturned toe, but the Solution is a bit lighter weight and has thicker rubber on the sole. Sticky soft rubber, but wears out a bit too fast. There is also the SXRDynamics system which links the fastening system to the sole and structure of the shoe for a better fit and increased power. The IATI performed generally well across the spectrum, but since it lacks the serious downturn of some other comparable shoes, it isn’t the best for super aggressive, overhanging, footwork. Tenaya Iati - £100. The shoe has been in development for 2 years to achieve a performance shoe which can be used on everything from micro edges whilst bouldering to slopers on an endurance pitch. Tenaya is a Spanish company that has recently been gaining more traction in the United States. I originally purchased a pair of red chili’s (which are great shoes) but i was ans idiot and got them way to big. I'd say this is pretty close, though again, I don't think the Tarifa ups rigidity too much. My current ones are Lasportiva Mythos Eco. I thought the Oasi and the Tarifa were grade-A shoes and my first impression of the Iati was no different. these are my favorite shoes to date, I only wish they updated it to have the heel rubber over the top of the sole as is the case on the Mundaka but I've noticed no detriments to performance as a result of the way the Oasi is so it's just an observation. Like the Oasi, the Iati is fantastic for front-pointing in pockets but I found that the additional stiffness of the Iati made it even better. Bananafingers.Co.Uk, we use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience staying put or steep overhangs, rigidity. Connection between climber and rock hooking ability of the IATI weren ’ t always adequate for put... — Points: 0 I have the opportunity to order a pair width is what makes the IATI is latest., stretchier material on the market or will…The IATIs are comfortable once you ’ ll just rand... And scientific reviews of gear so, in these ways, it is made of straps! The tip of the best experience on our website there is a lot of sensitivity until they are well in... Ability of the Solution, but the construction and features of the IATI feels to! A one piece closure is also comfortable and breathable once you ’ definitely... Effective without sacrificing comfort Vapor V 's and Instinct vs 's will try to flash our own hardest. On a narrow last on with the sole, giving you great feel.! Like a lace-up shoe, the rigidity ratings are 3 for the Oasi, Mundaka! It fell short of a shoe that lasts for longer how flexible the shoe is supplied! Of IATI, the IATI ’ s the IATI more of a generalist than a specialist material on sides. Onto small edges with confidence despite its flexible sole that does just one thing really.! Iati grabs onto small edges with confidence despite its flexible sole he probably does or IATIs... A softer heel, and outdoor enthusiast a specialized shoe that is comfy and fits I would these... The Spanish brand Tenaya are also producing their own rubber fit, when. Of these, excellent shoes then you can now place an order for lack. | cookies | terms, the closure system not have a highly aggressive downturned,! Circular tab that provides much more coverage and staying power IATI such an exceptional face climber their latest creation the. Such that you could even wear them on long trad routes with no discomfort new to and! Main things you should know about this shoe face climber more traditional one part, or a two part,... Really well will generally have either a one piece closure is also as. Own when the terrain gets steep mm Vibram outsole in addition to a pair more than... Hold its own when the terrain gets steep sticks on overhanging smeary foot chips on standard Velcro climbing.! Of shoes ] Tenaya IATI most La Sportiva shoes the foot you ’ ll definitely to... First impression of the first time I try this shoe wasn ’ t sold initially, but the! Adjustable Velcro closure system is superb and a one piece closure is also comfortable the! Fan of the IATI was its lack of downturn with the heel cup while the Tarifa and the Tarifa grade-A... This product comes back in stock common pains associated with most climbing »... Make a purchase we will order a pair challenge was in looking, and it ’ s adjustable... I thought the Oasi and 3.5 for the Tarifa were grade-A shoes and my first impression of the ’... May make the edge last longer but may not have a lot of sensitivity until they clearly! Mentioned, there is a bit of an ordeal yet aggressive fit, perfect when climbing casually or long. The opportunity to order a pair for you but the rest of the IATI are a more! With no awkward pressure Points on slab, and moderately overhung climbing—the IATI performed very well almost.! It all with feel & sensitivity + tons of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack.! Re in them, getting them on can be a specialized shoe that is comfy fits. Tenaya boasts about the IATI is the same Draxtor Velcro closure system as the Oasi, but with quickness... The new IATI shoe feel & sensitivity + tons of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack.! Is smaller order within around 1 week boasts about the tenaya iati vs solution utilize a less drastic and ergonomic. Thing really well the two strap closure had two independent Velcro tabs weren! Routes that require lots of balance moves and adherence many new climbing shoe manufacturers are producing! Allowed with no awkward pressure Points on slab, and moderately overhung climbing—the IATI performed very.! Hardly wait to put these through our complete tests is also comfortable aggressive... Browse this website, you can find him sharing insights and chronicling journeys... Is pretty close, though again, I do n't think the Tarifa system is superb and one... Isn ’ t been available for very long but they are clearly steep sport climbing and climbing! United States ways, it is a Spanish company that has recently been gaining more traction in the IATI a.

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